London Paddington to Paignton & Kingswear (for Dartmouth)

The Route of the Torbay Express

London Paddington is one of London's grandest and most elegant stations and is an important monument to the work of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. It was built by the Great Western Railway in 1854 and was designed by the legendary engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. This famous engineer also designed the S.S. Great Britain, the Clifton Suspension Bridge and the Royal Albert Bridge at Saltash. The concourse of the station is called "The Lawn" and has a statue of Paddington Bear. On Platform 1 by the entrance there is a statue of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. The former goods depot can be seen on the right as trains leave the station. This is now redeveloped as Paddington Waterside and links the station with the canalside of the Grand Union Canal. In its heyday and even today, London Paddington was the “Gateway to the West” and the starting point for journeys to the Thames Valley, West Country, the Cotswolds and South Wales. The station is fronted by the magnificent former Great Western Royal Hotel, which remains a prestigious hotel known as the Hilton London Paddington. In its heyday London Paddington was the starting point for such famous expresses as the Cornish Riviera, the Royal Duchy, the Bristolian, the Red Dragon, the Inter-City, the Cathedrals Express, the Cambrian Coast Express and the Torbay Express. From 1998 London Paddington also became the gateway to the world’s busiest airport when it became the terminus of the Heathrow Express service to London Heathrow Airport.

Throughout this “Through the Window” guide we describe views as being left or right from the train facing in the direction of travel out of London.

London Paddington to Reading:

On leaving London Paddington, the train follows the elevated M40 motorway seen on the right briefly before emerging into an area of high rise development. Royal Oak station and Westbourne Park station are passed within a few minutes of departure from Paddington. Kensal Green cemetery and Old Oak Common train depot are passed to the right, while to the left can be seen the pinnacles of Wormwood Scrubs. Kensal Green cemetery is where Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Isambard Kingdom Brunel and other famous people are buried. Wormwood Scrubs is the big prison. The prison was originally built by convict labour and houses 1400 prisoners. During the First World War, however, Wormwood Scrubs was an important airfield for the RAF. To the left as you pass the Old Oak Common train depot can be seen North Pole Depot which was built for the maintenance of the Eurostar trains through the Channel Tunnel. Next Acton Main Line station is passed through. London Underground trains share the route for much of the way to Ealing Broadway and then the surroundings become more suburban. Beyond West Ealing, Hanwell Recreation Ground can be seen on the right, and beyond Hanwell & Elthorne station the tower of Hanwell Church can be seen on the right. In its churchyard lies Jonas Hanway, the man who introduced the umbrella to Britain in 1750. Soon the line is carried high over the River Brent on the 8 arched Warncliffe Viaduct built in 1837. Soon Southall is reached and to the left can be seen the former Southall Locomotive Depot now home to the GWR Preservation Group's Southall Railway Centre. Just beyond Southall the line crosses the Grand Junction Canal and soon Hayes & Harlington is reached. After West Drayton station the River Colne is crossed. Shortly after this the line to Heathrow Airport can be seen diverging from the mainline via a flyover to the left. Then Iver station is reached. The Grand Junction Canal soon draws up close to the line on the right just as Langley station is reached.

The French style, domed station at Slough dates from 1838 in parts. Here the branch line to Windsor & Eton Central can be seen branching off to the left soon after the station. Before this branch line was opened in 1850 Queen Victoria used Slough station when she travelled to Windsor Castle. The River Thames divides Windsor from its close but no less famous neighbour Eton. After leaving Slough a number of interesting factories line the route, notably the impressive brick home of Horlicks to the right.

After Slough the landscape becomes more rural, while to the left can be seen the continuous stream of planes on their final approach to London Heathrow airport.  Soon Burnham station is passed and then Taplow. To the right is Taplow’s 1912 church with its distinctive green spire, and then the train makes its first crossing of the River Thames. Maidenhead Bridge with its two graceful shallow brick arches spanning the river is one of Brunel’s masterpieces. Opened in 1837, it confounded its critics, who firmly believed that such flat arches would surely collapse. The bridge also features in J.M.W. Turner’s famous painting, Rain, Steam and Speed. Maidenhead still retains echoes of its Edwardian charm by the river. Maidenhead station is where the branch to Bourne End and Marlow can be seen branching off to the right.

To the right of the line after Twyford station, where the branch to Henley on Thames can be seen joining the mainline on the right, are the lakes and flooded gravel pits that surround the River Loddon, a River Thames tributary. A deep cutting, the Sonning Cutting, south of Sonning then takes the line towards Reading. The railway enters the town with the River Thames right next to the line on the right hand side. To the right can be seen the white façade of Caversham Park, an 1850s mansion that now houses the BBC’s foreign language section. Before it arrives at Reading station, the line crosses the River Kennet, the River Thames’ link with the Kennet & Avon Canal and the recently reopened waterway route to Bath and Bristol. On the left the great gas holders are passed. Also the line from London Waterloo can be seen on the left as the train enters Reading station.

Reading is a thriving university town and shopping and business centre. Reading still has a good variety of 19^th century architecture, notably the Royal Berkshire Hospital of 1837 and the 1870s municipal buildings by Waterhouse. The ruins of the Cluniac abbey, founded by King Henry I in the 12^th century, underline the town’s historic importance.

Reading station is an important junction with lines running to Oxford and the Midlands, the West Country and the South West via Basingstoke. Another line to London Waterloo also connects with routes to Surrey and Kent. Reading station has a gracious Italianate façade of 1870 on Platform 4, crowned with a decorative clock tower, but however to the side is the new station complete with shopping arcade.

Reading to Taunton:

On leaving Reading the line to the West Country leaves the mainline to Bristol, Oxford and the Midlands which can be seen heading off to the right. To the right are the fields alongside the River Thames that every year around the August Bank Holiday weekend are host to the Reading Festival which is one of the UK's major summer music festivals. Reading train depot can be seen in the centre of the Reading triangle to the right. The train then runs past housing estates to Reading West, and then soon enters open country as they cross the River Kennet. The line to Basingstoke is soon seen diverging off to the left. From this point the river and the Kennet & Avon Canal are never far from the line, and the canal with its restored locks, its handsome brick bridges and its brightly painted narrow boats is an enjoyable feature of the journey. With the gravel works and lakes of the Kennet valley to the left, the line passes under the M4 and then Theale comes into view, marked by its large early Victorian church. The next station is Aldermaston, but its village with its pretty brick cottages and its famous pottery is over a mile to the south of the station. Closer to hand is Midgham Church, Victorian and decorative, and attractively placed in a field just to the west of Midgham station. At Thatcham, another station some distance from its town, there is a canal lock just to the left.

Approaching Newbury, the train passes Newbury Racecourse to the left, whose weather boarded station, Newbury Racecourse, still retains its GWR name boards. At Newbury station, little of the town can be seen, but the centre is not far away, easily accessible on foot.

Newbury has plenty to offer the visitor. The great 16^th century church and 17^th century cloth hall, which now houses a museum, reveal the town’s former wealth as a centre of the wool trade. In the 15^th century over 1000 wool weavers were employed here, in what was England’s first true factory. Prosperity continued in later centuries, particularly after the opening of the Kennet & Avon Canal, which winds its way through the town centre, and the legacy is an interesting variety of buildings from all periods, including some groups of almshouses and a Victorian corn exchange. Newbury is also famous for the two Civil War battles that were fought near the town.

Leaving Newbury, the train enters a wooded stretch, with glimpses of the pretty village of Hamstead Marshall to the left as it passes the close group of the mill, the pub and the canal lock. To the right is the classical façade of 18^th century Benham House, set in its Capability Brown park. Kintbury village is to the south of its station, clustered around its large church. After Kintbury the river valley becomes more defined and the line runs along the southern slopes with good views across to the northern side, beyond the river and the canal. Hungerford is a handsome town, with all its main buildings in one street which climbs southwards away from the river. From the railway bridge just west of the station, there is a clear view of the town centre to the left, with its good range of 18^th and 19^th century buildings, but trains approaching from the west offer the best view of the church and its vicarage, pleasantly set beside the river and the canal. West of Hungerford the line overlooks the canal and the river valley, and then it crosses the canal again near Froxfield, where the decorative gothic façade of the almshouses founded by the Duchess of Somerset in 1694 can be clearly seen.

Railway and canal now run close together to Little Bedwyn, a delightful little village with its 12^th century church, its row of 1860s estate cottages, all in coloured brick, and the 18^th century buildings by the canal and lock. Locks appear quite frequently now as the canal climbs towards its summit, a few miles to the south west, and the train soon reaches Bedwyn. Near the station is Great Bedwyn’s large church with its grand central tower and pretty graveyard, and a short walk away is the attractive village. 

After Bedwyn the line continues west through the rolling countryside of the Marlborough Downs. The Kennet & Avon Canal continues to parallel the railway to the left and the famous Crofton Beam Engines are passed to the right and then the canal disappears into a tunnel near Savernake. Soon the village of Woolton Rivers can be seen to the right as the line draws alongside Martinsell Hill. The summit of which is crowned by a large prehistoric camp covering more than 30 acres. The hill rises 947 ft high and commands fine views across Salisbury Plain which stretches away to the left of the railway line.

Soon the line reaches Pewsey station with its village to the left, with its church rising above the village. Salisbury Plain continues to stretch away to the left. To the right can be seen Picked Hill and Woodborough Hill. Due north from here lies the ancient site of Avebury one of the many ancient sites that lie alongside this route to the west. To the right also can be seen Milk Hill and its famous White Horse. This horse only dates from 1812 but some of the other white horses in this part of the country are very ancient including the Westbury White Horse which the line passes later on in the journey. Then to the right can be seen the village of Woodborough. The ancient earthwork of Rybury Camp can be seen to the right. While to the left is the village of Beechingstoke and the vast expanse of Salisbury Plain stretching away to the south. Then a broad valley opens up to the right and the line bends south west. The village of Potterne can be seen to the right,  and on the left the village of Great Cheverell appears. Also to the left the long line of Salisbury Plain forms the horizon. Coulston Hill and Stoke Hill are seen as a background to the village of East Coulston while a little further on Edington Hill can be seen behind the village of Edington. This village has the beautiful Priory Church at its heart. This splendid piece of 14^th century architecture was built by William de Edyndune, who became Bishop of Winchester and began the important rebuilding of Winchester Cathedral which was completed by his successor William of Wykeham.

The next hill viewed to the left is Westbury Hill and at the summit can be seen the great earthwork of Bratton Camp with fine trenches clearly marked by the long ridges on the hillside. Legend tells that it was at this spot that the Danish King Guthrum retired after suffering a heavy defeat by King Alfred the Great at the Battle of Ethandune in 878.

Westbury Hill juts out prominently from the main form of Salisbury Plain at this point and soon another famous landmark comes into view on its western slopes. This is the famous Westbury White Horse. Unlike its counterpart we saw earlier in the journey at Milk Hill near Pewsey, this White Horse is very ancient. Legend tells how it may have been cut to commemorate King Alfred the Great’s great victory over King Guthrum. But having become overgrown in places it was recut in 1778 and received further attention in 1873. It measures 175 ft from head to tail and stands 107 ft high.

Soon the Westbury avoiding line can be seen diverging off to the left and if the train is not stopping at Westbury then it will take the avoiding line and the town can be seen to the left. However if the train is calling at Westbury station then it will continue and the line from Bristol can be seen joining the mainline from the right. Then the train enters Westbury station. This station is an important junction for trains to Bristol and Salisbury.

After leaving Westbury the line to Salisbury can be seen diverging to the left and soon the Westbury avoiding line rejoins the mainline from the left. Away to the left can be seen Cley Hill rising in the distance. Like many high hills in this part of England it too has a prehistoric camp at the summit. The hill rises to 800 ft and commands fine views. Historically it is of interest as it was one of the sites chosen for the great beacon fires that gave warning of the approach of the Spanish Armada. Soon the valley of the Frome is reached. Again Frome station, like Westbury, has an avoiding line to allow express trains to bypass the station. This is soon seen diverging off to the left. Just before entering Frome station the disused line to Radstock can be seen joining the mainline from the right. After leaving Frome the avoiding line rejoins from the left and the journey continues westwards.

Cley Hill continues to keep the line company after Frome and the hill could be considered as the western outpost of Salisbury Plain as soon we enter a different landscape. The change is marked almost at once by the fine mass of woodland around Longleat House, the seat of the Marquess of Bath. The house stands beside a beautiful lake in a widespread deer park, hidden from view by the beautiful Longleat Woods to the left.

To the right spreads Postlebury Wood over Postlebury hill. These woodlands form part of Witham Park. Soon the village of Witham Friary is passed. Here the line to the Cranmore and now home of the East Somerset Railway diverges from the mainline to the right. Soon the village of Upton Noble lies to the right.

The little River Brue now flows beside the line on the left, and soon the little town of Bruton is reached. On the right the land slopes down gently into the valley of the Brue and its tributary, the River Alham, we have a view of the distant Mendip Hills. Soon the ancient town of Castle Cary lies to the left and Castle Cary station is reached. Just after the station the line to Yeovil, Dorchester and Weymouth diverges left from the mainline.

A striking landmark that can be seen to the right, looking west, is Glastonbury Tor, a prominent hill with the ruined chapel of St Michael on its summit. Soon on the left can be seen the church tower of Lovington. While also on the left in the distance can be seen Cadbury Castle. Around the steep sides of the hill are four lines of earthworks and this camp is said to have been the last British stronghold in the West to hold out against the Romans. Wheathill Church stands close to the line on the left, and East Lydford Church on the right, with Glastonbury Tor still visible in the distance.

Next is the village of Keinton Mandeville on the right. This village is the birthplace of Sir Henry Irving in 1838. Pennard Hill near Glastonbury rises up 400 ft on the right. While on the left is the village of Charlton Adam and its church tower. Then Charlton Mackrell is passed on the right. To the right appears Dundon Hill beyond Copley Wood. Soon we reach Somerton. It is a picturesque little place with an ancient market cross and other old buildings. It stands of the River Cary. After passing Somerton the railway enters Somerton Tunnel, and it is the first tunnel after leaving London. After the tunnel the small market town of Langport is passed. This town lies on the River Parrett. Hills rise either side of the railway here, but the valley of the Parrett broadens out into another expanse of low lying country. The stretch lying immediately to the right is Aller Moor and where the hills subside into the valley is the village of Aller. This is where King Alfred the Great is said to have baptised King Guthrun and many of his followers in the Saxon font which can still be seen in Aller Church soon after the battle of Ethandune. Away to the right beyond the villages of Othery and Middlezoy stretches Sedgemoor, famous for the site of the battle of Sedgemoor which ended the Duke of Monmouth’s rebellion in 1685.

The Polden Hills can be seen rising beyond the level stretch of Sedgemoor, while to the left on the higher ground bordering West Sedge Moor is seen the Parkfield Monument, erected in 1768 by the Earl of Chatham to commemorate Sir William Pynsent. Also on the left is the village of Stoke St Gregory. To the right can be seen the great Burrow Bridge Mound, identified by legend as ‘King Alfred’s Fort’, and actually used as a fort during the Civil Wars. Athelney is close to the junction of the River Tone and River Parrett. Soon the line passes the Isle of Athelney to the left and the legendary location of the humble cottage where King Alfred the Great had his telling off after burning the cakes! Here in these marshes he took refuge and rested while preparing the final assault against the Danes. The Isle is a slight rise above the level of the flat lands; and in medieval times there was an abbey, but now there is a pillar erected in 1801, with an inscription commemorating King Alfred the Great. Looking ahead to the right a distant view can be seen of the Quantock Hills. A little way beyond the Isle of Athelney to the right can be seen the village of Lyng. While on the left beyond the level stretch of Curry Moor, through which flows the River Tone, is seen the village of North Curry. In the distance are the Blackdown Hills.

Soon the line joins the mainline from Bristol to Taunton via a flyover and the Bridgewater & Taunton Canal can be seen on the right. While on the left the River Tone follows the line past the village of Creech St Michael whose church is famous for the extremely ancient carving of the Holy Trinity above the west door. The neighbouring village of Ruishton also presents an ancient church with a fine tower. The M5 soon crosses the railway and then Taunton station is reached.

Taunton is a fine town with a rich history. It’s castle was founded in the 8^th century by King Ina, King of the West Saxons, and a large part of the medieval building still remains. Taunton also played an important role in the English Civil War and was chosen by the Duke of Monmouth as the place where he proclaimed himself King. An event which had its sequel in the Bloody Assize held here by Judge Jeffreys.

Taunton to Exeter St Davids:

Soon after leaving Taunton a view across to the Blackdown Hills opens out to the left and the Wellington obelisk is seen on the ridge. On the right is seen Taunton School, a notable public school, located at Staplegrove. The school opened its history in 1847 as the Independent College, a centre of education for boys from nonconformist families. The buildings date from 1870.

The ancient octagonal church tower on the left is that of Bishop’s Hull. To the right is the village of Norton Fitzwarren and site of Norton Fitzwarren station is soon reached. This station was where the branches to Barnstaple and Minehead diverged off to the right. Sadly only the Minehead line now remains and is home to the West Somerset Railway. On the left the village of Bradford on Tone appears. The Blackdown Hills and the Wellington Monument come into closer view as we head south west. Then the town of Wellington is passed. There are two Wellingtons – one in Somerset and one in Shropshire. However it is this Somerset Wellington that gives the great Iron Duke and the Duke of Wellington their title. Again to the left can be seen the Wellington Monument erected in honour of the Battle of Waterloo and the Duke of Wellington’s victory. Soon the village of Sampford Arundel is passed to the left and Culmstock Beacon can be seen on the western end of the Blackdown Hills. After this the landscape slopes down into the Culm Valley.

At this point the train has started the ascent of Wellington Bank which is a steep gradient and soon enters Whiteball Tunnel. Soon the village of Burlescombe is seen on the left and behind it is the M5 motorway which soon runs alongside the railway. To the right is the Grand Western Canal. This connects the River Tone with the River Exe which the canal enters at Tiverton. Soon the village of Sampford Peverel is seen to the right and Tiverton Parkway station is reached alongside the M5 motorway.

After leaving Tiverton Parkway to the north west on the right of the line can be seen Barton Hill. To the left across the Culm Valley is the village of Kentisbeare. Soon the village of Willand is passed. The Culm River is an important tributary of the River Exe, coming down from the southern slopes of the Blackdown Hills. Soon the next settlement passed is Cullompton. All the way the M5 parallels the railway line to the left. The railway then crosses the River Culm and to the right appears the village of Bradninch. Bradninch was a chartered borough as long ago as1208 and from the time of King Edward II to that of King Henry VII returned two Members of Parliament. Bradninch Manor House which stands to the right on the outskirts of the village, is one of the finest examples of an Elizabethan interior in the country. Some of the rooms are finely carved and panelled. King Charles I stayed at the old Rectory during the Civil War.

The wooded hill which rises prominently close to the railway on the left is Dolbury Hill. Rising sharply out of the landscape by Killerton Park it checks the River Culm on its course and forces it to make a wide detour. The M5 motorway also disappears from view behind the hill. Soon the River Culm can be seen again on the left and from the right it is joined by the River Exe. The village of Rewe is passed by close to the railway on the left. Then again on the left the village of Stoke Canon is passed. Then across the River Exe can be seen the village of Brampford Speke. Just after Stoke Canon the River Exe passes under the railway to join the River Culm with the beautiful Stoke Woods rising up to the right.

The River Exe is a beautiful and interesting river, beginning its story way up in the hills and rocky tors of Exmoor. It rises in the centre of Exmoor Forest only a few miles from the North Devon coast but heads across Devon to find its way into the sea on the South Devon coast at Exmouth. At Tiverton it receives the River Lowman, made famous by Blackmore in the ‘Lorna Doone’.

Soon the railway heads down into the historic city of Exeter. At Cowley Bridge the line from Barnstaple can be seen joining the mainline from the right. As we approach Exeter the city spreads itself out on the hill to the left and soon Exeter St Davids station is reached.

Exeter was a fortified town and a busy port from the Roman period onwards, but it was the Normans who developed the city as it stands today. Their legacy is the great Exeter Cathedral with its flanking Norman towers. Greatly expanded during the Middle Ages, the cathedral is also known for its vaulting and 14^th century sculptures in the west front. It was the River Exe and the port that made Exeter a wealthy city in the Middle Ages and the surviving timber framed buildings reflect this. In order to maintain its wealth, the city built its ship canal to the sea, from 1564. Exeter today is a thriving city with an exciting past. Indeed Exeter is one of the oldest cities in the West Country as always been a capital in a wider sense than being the county town of Devon. Its position here in the West Country is similar to that of Winchester to the ancient kingdom of Wessex. Exeter is also a bustling commercial city and a great railway centre.

Here at Exeter St Davids the former Southern Railway line from London Waterloo joins the Great Western mainline. In its heyday Southern Railway expresses from Waterloo crossed with Great Western ones from Paddington each heading in opposite directions. Southern ones going north via Okehampton and down into Plymouth via Tavistock, while Great Western ones went south via the famous sea wall section at Dawlish to Plymouth. Sadly today only the Great Western route survives as a through mainline.

Exeter St Davids to Paignton:

Shortly after leaving Exeter St Davids station the line to London Waterloo diverges from the mainline to the left and heads up the steep Exeter Incline to Exeter Central station. As our train leaves Exeter and heads westwards we pass Exeter St Thomas station and a view of the magnificent Exeter Cathedral and the city opens up to the left. The following section of railway round to Newton Abbot is one of the most famous sections of railway in the world and is very scenic as it follows the legendary Dawlish sea wall section and then at Teignmouth turns inland and the Great Western Main Line continues over the South Devon banks to Plymouth. Here the River Exe is on our left, but the waterway nearest the railway is the Exeter Canal. This canal runs between the railway and the River Exe for about 5 miles. It was one of the first canals built in England, having been commenced in Queen Elizabeth I’s time. Soon to the right the pinnacled tower of Alphington Church is visible. While to the left the ancient seaport of Topsham can be seen across the River Exe. This is on the Exeter Central to Exmouth railway line. This line can be seen from time to time following the river bank on the other side of the River Exe. On the right is the village of Exminster with a 15^th century church containing one of the ornate Devonshire carved screens.

Soon on the right can be seen the village of Powderham with its Church and Belvidere Tower. The Tower is set on a hill with wide views over the estuary of the River Exe. On the left across the River Exe can be seen Nunwell Court. The great treasure of this house is a panel from Sir Francis Drake’s ship ‘The Golden Hind’. Behind can be seen the waterside village of Lympstone.

Next the focus of interest shifts to the right once more as Powderham Castle. This is the home of the great Courtenay family (Earls of Devon since 1533) and is set in its vast deer park. The castle was built about the time of the Norman conquest and has been the home of the Courtenay family since 1377.

Soon the train reaches Starcross station and here there is a splendid view across to Exmouth. A notable feature of Starcross is the Italianate pumping engine house which can be seen to the right as we pass Starcross station. It is the best surviving building from Brunel's unsuccessful Atmospheric Railway. This abortive enterprise is commemorated in the "Atmospheric Railway" pub located opposite the railway station. The engine house is now home to the Starcross Sailing & Cruising Club. From Starcross there is a ferry service to Exmouth operated by Exe to Sea Cruises. Between here and Exmouth is the vast open stretch of water that is the estuary of the River Exe. Also there is Dawlish Warren a sandbank which thrusts itself out into the Exe like a breakwater at the mouth of the river. At the western end of it is Dawlish Warren station, with Langstone Cliff rising up just beyond. Here the railway runs alongside the sea wall and the open sea for the first time. A fine headland that rises on the opposite side of the estuary beyond Exmouth hides from view the seaside town of Budleigh Salterton which lurks just round the corner.

Fine red sandstone cliffs rise up on the right as the railway runs alongside the famous Great Western sea wall which continues all the way to Teignmouth. However the next station reached is Dawlish and this is the first seaside resort reached on the Cornish Riviera route from London. Dawlish is divided into two distinct parts, the old town on the right with Dawlish Water running through it and the new town. The next section of the line along the famous sea wall is punctuated by the train plunging into tunnels at regular intervals with glimpses of the sea in between. The first tunnel reached is Kennaway Tunnel followed by Phillot Tunnel. Next follows Clerk’s Tunnel and then Coryton Tunnel. This is the namesake to Coryton Cove one of the small coves along this stretch of coast. Finally comes Parson’s Tunnel the longest and last of the series. On our exit to the left can be seen the Paron & Clerk Rock. If we look back the way we have come at this point we will see the wide expanse of sea to where the Devon coast runs into Dorset in the east and on a fine day you can see all the way to Portland Bill. Today this section of coast is known as the Jurassic Coast  - the Dorset & East Devon Coast World Heritage Site. Beyond Parson’s Tunnel the line reaches the outskirts of Teignmouth a highly picturesque seaside resort and port at the mouth of the River Teign. The Danes raided it hundreds of years ago as did the French in1690. Here the railway turns inland after a brief glimpse of the seafront and reaches Teignmouth station.

After Teignmouth the line follows the River Teign inland and passes the harbour before running inland alongside the River Teign. Across the estuary to the left can be seen the village of Shaldon which lies at the waterside in the shadow of Ness Rock. Soon we can see the Teignmouth Bridge which carries the road from Teignmouth to Torquay across the estuary of the River Teign. The village of Bishop’s Teignton can be seen on the right had an ancient importance through its close association with the Bishops of Exeter who had a country residence here. The Little Haldon Hills which spread inland from here are the foothills to the vast expanse of Dartmoor. Soon the line passes King’s Teignton on the right and across the country to the right can be seen one of the famous Dartmoor tors, Haytor, which is 1,400 ft high and is crowned by a magnificent heap of rocks. Next the railway passes under the A380 main road and Newton Abbot Racecourse is passed on the right and a moment later Newton Abbot station is reached. Just after the Racecourse is passed the disused former branch line to Heathfield and Moretonhampstead joins the mainline on the right. Newton Abbot is a pleasant town at the head of the Teign estuary and is an important junction for connections to the English Riviera at Torquay and Paignton and it also is a good centre for visiting the Dartmoor National Park.

On the left as we depart Torquay station can be seen the rear of the Grand Hotel Torquay. This is one of the top hotels on the English Riviera and has an Agatha Christie connection. This is where Agatha and Archie Christie spent their honeymoon night after their wedding in Bristol on Christmas Eve 1914. Two days later Agatha travelled up to London with her new husband and waved him goodbye as he set off for war in France. It was to be 6 months before they would see each other again and nearly four years before their married life could really begin. The Grand Hotel now has an Agatha Christie Suite. The hotel's popular restaurant and bar have fine sea views.

Next to Paignton station is the Paignton Queens Park station for the Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway. On departing Paignton Queens Park station the steam train parallels the National Rail line for about three quarters of a mile past Goodrington carriage sidings on the right. Soon we reach Goodrington Sands station. After leaving this station we then pass on the left the large flumes of the QuayWest Water Park and then inland to the right beyond the car park is Torbay Leisure Centre and through the trees Paignton Zoo. As the train climbs we pass the glorious sands of Goodrington beach on the left and on the right can be seen red sandstone cliffs. Soon the beach gives way to rocky cliffs and small coves. Saltern Cove then comes into sight on the left with its contorted “Armchair” rock feature at its southern end. On the right the red sandstone cliffs, can be seen surmounted by a grass mound known as Suger Loaf Hill which suddenly sweeps down into a small valley where Waterside holiday park can be seen. There are glorious views across Tor Bay to the left and looking out across the Bay you can see the resort of Torquay to the left and Brixham and Berry Head to the right. On really clear days you can even seen the Isle of Portland near Weymouth, rising from the sea on the horizon across Lyme Bay. The headland on the Torquay side is called Hope's Nose, and it has two rocky islands offshore, Thatcher Rock and Ore Stone. As our journey continues the train crosses Broadsands viaduct with a panoramic view on the left of Broadsands beach. Beyond is the low headland of Churston Point and after passing through a deep cutting the line suddenly emerges onto the even longer Hookhills viaduct high above the bungalow estate in the valley below, leading down to Broadsands beach. Soon the line is in a cutting again and turns away inland to reach the summit of the climb at Churston station which is reached after passing under the modern road bridge carrying the Paignton to Brixham and Dartmouth road. 

Just before the station is the turntable on the left and on the right is the steam railway's locomotive shed where its fleet of steam locomotives is maintained. Also on the left can be seen the former bay platform that was used by the branch line trains to Brixham.

On leaving Churston station the line then heads downhill all the way to Kingswear. The line crosses the high ground separating Tor Bay from the Dart Valley and begins dropping, at first into deeply rolling countryside, much of it wooded, sometimes in cuttings and sometimes on embankments. Shortly after leaving Churston we are on a high embankment with a wide view to the right over Galmpton with Dartmoor in the distance. Then follows a cutting after which the train emerges into a small valley called Hook Bottom, curving round to Brim Hill to the right. We then cross a small stream on an embankment with a first glimpse of the River Dart at Galmpton Creek to the right through the trees. As the train coasts gently downhill it suddenly enters Greenway tunnel before emerging with a really spectacular change of scenery high above the wooded slopes bordering the Dart Estuary with views right across the river upstream to Dittersham and downstream towards Dartmouth. This is Agatha Christie country as the famous crime author lived in Greenway House high above the line to the right from the 1930s right until her death in 1976. Greenway House is now owned by the National Trust.

Another notable house, Coleton Fishacre, about a mile away, also has connections with the arts for from 1925 it was the home of the D'Oyly Carte family, who created the D'Oyly Carte Opera Company. The line then crosses Greenway viaduct and gradually drops down to river level but veers away from the shore past Longwood Creek and Noss Greek on an embankment. Noss Creek is the location of the former Philip & Sons, Dartmouth shipyard but now this is the Noss Marina. As the train runs alongside the water's edge a gradually expanding vista of Dartmouth Harbour opens out to the right with its mass of yachts and other small craft with the occasional larger vessel such as sailing ships and the odd warship. This is Onedin Line country where many of the scenes were filmed for this famous TV series that ran from 1971 to 1980. Across the water high on the hillside can be seen the Britannia Royal Naval College where all officers in the Royal Navy are trained. It is open to the public for tours via BRNC Tours & Events.

The train then slows down approaching Britannia Crossing, the level crossing carrying the main road from Tor Bay to the Higher Ferry, seen on the right, and linking Tor Bay with Dartmouth. This is vehicular chain ferry. The ferry is owned and operated by the Dartmouth - Kingswear Floating Bridge Company. The current ferry boat, named No. 7, was built in 1960 and can carry up to 18 cars.  It is unusual in that although it uses chains for guidance, it is actually propelled by paddle wheels. It was built locally in the shipyard of Philip & Sons., Dartmouth and is the last surviving Diesel Electric Paddle Vessel (DEPV) in the UK. However it is to be replaced by 2009 by a newbuild ferry. It is one of three ferries across the River Dart from Kingswear to Dartmouth, the others being the Riverlink passenger ferry and the South Hams District Council operated Lower Ferry which also is a vehicular ferry.

Then the train continues alongside the water's edge before easing round the right hand curve across Waterhead viaduct, with Waterhead Creek on the left and Darthaven Marina on the right, into Kingswear station and journey's end. Kingswear station opened on the 16th August 1864 and in the heyday of the Great Western Railway until closure of the line in 1972 was the destination of the famous Torbay Express service from London Paddington. Today the Torbay Express still runs but now terminates at Paignton. The Paignton to Kingswear line was saved in 1972 and reopened as the Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway and is a major tourist attraction for the area. The overall roof at Kingswear station is now a listed structure and is one of only two such structures left in the country of this once common Brunel design still in railway use, the other being at Frome station.

From Kingswear you can get the Riverlink passenger ferry across to Dartmouth, which runs from the landing stage alongside the station. This is reached by walking along the platform and straight ahead down to the ferry pontoon at the end of the station.

This is the successor to the railway ferry from Kingswear to Dartmouth. In 1972 BR passed operation of the passenger ferry to the local council but in 1977 this was in turn passed to Riverlink. There is also the South Hams District Council operated Dartmouth Lower Ferry which is a vehicle ferry that runs from Kingswear to Dartmouth. This consists of a floating platform that is pushed and pulled across the river by tugs. This  ferry's route runs from near Kingswear station close to that of the passenger ferry.

Dartmouth:

Dartmouth did in fact have its own railway station, which is now a restaurant known as the Station Restaurant. The original plans for the Dartmouth & Torbay Railway line took the line across a bridge and into the town. Opposition from local seamen and merchants saw the route diverted to Kingswear on the opposite side of the river, but this occurred after the station had been built at Dartmouth. The railway therefore terminated at Kingswear (for Dartmouth) station and passengers transferred to Dartmouth by ferry as they still do today. The ferry pontoon on the Dartmouth side is right outside the station building (now the Station Restaurant). This ferry was originally operated by the Great Western Railway and later British Rail but today is operated by Riverlink. Dartmouth is believed to be the only place in the world with a purpose built railway station which has never seen a train.

Across the river lies the historic town of Dartmouth. Historically, Dartmouth was of great strategic importance as a deep-water port for sailing vessels. The port was used as the sailing point for the crusades of 1147 and 1190, and a creek close to Dartmouth Castle is still named for the vast fleets which assembled there (Warfleet Creek). It was a home of the English navy since the reign of King Edward III and was twice surprised and sacked during the Hundred Years War, after which the mouth of the estuary was closed every night with a great chain. The narrow mouth of the Dart is protected by two fortified castles, Dartmouth Castle and Kingswear Castle. Dartmouth is also home to the Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta that takes place at the end of August each year that culminates spectacularly with a magnificent airshow and fireworks display.

Henry Hudson put into Dartmouth on his return from America, and was promptly arrested for sailing under foreign flag. The Pilgrim Fathers put into Dartmouth's Bayard's Cove, en-route from Southampton to America. They rested a while before setting off on their journey in the Mayflower and the Speedwell on the 20th August 1620. About 300 miles west of Land's End, they realised that the Speedwell was unseaworthy and returned to Plymouth. The Mayflower departed alone to complete the crossing to Cape Cod.

Thomas Newcomen, the inventor of the steam pumping engine was born in Dartmouth in 1663. The location of his house in Lower Street is marked with a plaque, although the building itself was demolished (and reconstructed on Ridge Hill) in the nineteenth century to make way for a new road which was named after Newcomen. An eighteenth century working Newcomen engine is on display in the town. In the latter part of the Second World War the town was a base for American forces, and one of the major departure points for Utah beach in the D Day landings. Much of the surrounding countryside was closed to the public while it was used by US troops for practise landings and manoeuvres.

The finest hotel in Dartmouth is the Royal Castle Hotel, a favourite of the families of naval families from the Royal Naval College. The town is a delightful place and gets especially busy at the time of the Passing Out Parade at the Britannia Royal Naval College and during the Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta. But Dartmouth is a beautiful town set on the wooded banks of the River Dart opposite Kingswear.