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London
Paddington is one of London's
grandest and most elegant stations and is an important monument to the
work of
Isambard Kingdom Brunel. It was built by the Great Western Railway in
1854 and
was designed by the legendary engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. This
famous
engineer also designed the S.S. Great
Britain,
the Clifton Suspension Bridge and the Royal Albert Bridge
at Saltash. The concourse of
the station is
called "The Lawn" and has a statue of Paddington Bear.
On Platform 1 by
the entrance there is a statue of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. The former
goods depot can be seen on the right as trains leave the station. This
is now redeveloped as Paddington Waterside
and links the station with the canalside of the Grand Union Canal. In its heyday and even today, London
Paddington was the
“Gateway to
the West” and the starting point for journeys to the Thames Valley,
West Country,
the Cotswolds
and South Wales. The station is fronted by the magnificent
former Great Western Royal Hotel,
which remains a prestigious
hotel known
as the Hilton
London Paddington. In
its heyday
London
Paddington was the starting point for such famous expresses as the
Cornish Riviera, the Royal Duchy, the Bristolian, the Red Dragon, the
Inter-City, the Cathedrals Express, the Cambrian Coast Express and the
Torbay Express. From 1998
London
Paddington
also became the gateway to the world’s busiest airport when it became
the
terminus of the Heathrow Express service to London Heathrow Airport.
Throughout
this “Through the Window” guide we describe views as being left or
right from
the train facing in the direction of travel out of London.
London Paddington to Reading:
On
leaving London Paddington, the train
follows the elevated M40 motorway seen on the right briefly before
emerging
into an area of high rise development. Royal
Oak station and Westbourne Park
station are passed within a few minutes of departure from Paddington.
Kensal
Green cemetery and Old Oak Common train depot are passed to the right,
while to
the left can be seen the pinnacles of Wormwood Scrubs. Kensal Green
cemetery is
where Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Isambard Kingdom Brunel and other famous
people
are buried. Wormwood Scrubs is the big prison. The prison was
originally built
by convict labour and houses 1400 prisoners. During the First World
War,
however, Wormwood Scrubs was an important airfield for the RAF. To the
left as
you pass the Old Oak Common train depot can be seen North Pole Depot
which was
built for the maintenance of the Eurostar trains through the Channel
Tunnel. Next Acton Main Line station is passed
through. London Underground trains share the route for much of the way
to Ealing Broadway and then the
surroundings become more suburban. Beyond West
Ealing, Hanwell Recreation Ground can be seen on the right, and
beyond Hanwell & Elthorne station the tower of Hanwell Church can be seen on
the right.
In its churchyard lies Jonas Hanway, the man who introduced the
umbrella to Britain
in
1750. Soon the line is carried high over the River Brent on the 8
arched
Warncliffe Viaduct built in 1837. Soon Southall
is reached and to the left can be seen the former Southall Locomotive
Depot now
home to the GWR Preservation Group's Southall
Railway Centre. Just beyond Southall the line
crosses the Grand
Junction Canal
and soon Hayes & Harlington is reached. After West Drayton station the River Colne is crossed. Shortly
after this
the line to Heathrow
Airport can
be seen
diverging from the mainline via a flyover to the left. Then Iver
station is reached. The Grand Junction
Canal
soon draws up close to the line on the right just as Langley
station is reached.
The
French style, domed station at Slough
dates from 1838 in parts. Here the branch line
to Windsor & Eton Central can be seen branching off to the left
soon after
the station. Before this branch line was opened in 1850 Queen Victoria
used Slough station when she travelled to Windsor Castle.
The River Thames divides Windsor from
its close
but no less famous neighbour Eton.
After
leaving Slough a number of
interesting
factories line the route, notably the impressive brick home of Horlicks
to the
right.
After Slough the landscape becomes
more rural, while
to the left can be seen the continuous stream of planes on their final
approach
to London Heathrow airport. Soon Burnham station is passed and then Taplow.
To the right is Taplow’s 1912
church with its distinctive green spire, and then the train makes its
first
crossing of the River Thames. Maidenhead Bridge
with its two
graceful shallow brick arches spanning the river is one of Brunel’s
masterpieces. Opened in 1837, it confounded its critics, who firmly
believed
that such flat arches would surely collapse. The bridge also features
in J.M.W.
Turner’s famous painting, Rain, Steam and
Speed. Maidenhead still retains echoes of its Edwardian charm by
the river. Maidenhead station is where the
branch to Bourne End and Marlow can be seen branching off to the right.
To
the right of the line after Twyford
station, where the branch to Henley on Thames can be seen joining the
mainline
on the right, are the lakes and flooded gravel pits that surround the
River
Loddon, a River Thames tributary. A deep cutting, the Sonning Cutting,
south of
Sonning then takes the line towards Reading.
The railway enters the town with the River Thames right next to the
line on the
right hand side. To the right can be seen the white façade of Caversham Park,
an 1850s mansion that now houses the BBC’s foreign language section.
Before it
arrives at Reading station, the line
crosses the
River Kennet, the River Thames’ link with the Kennet
& Avon Canal
and
the recently reopened waterway route to Bath
and Bristol.
On the
left the great gas holders are passed. Also the line from London
Waterloo can
be seen on the left as the train enters Reading
station.
Reading is a thriving
university town and shopping and business centre. Reading
still has a good variety of 19th century architecture,
notably the Royal
Berkshire Hospital of 1837 and the
1870s municipal buildings by Waterhouse. The ruins of the Cluniac
abbey,
founded by King Henry I in the 12th century, underline the
town’s
historic importance.
Reading
station is an important junction with lines running to Oxford
and the Midlands, the West Country and the South West via Basingstoke.
Another line to London Waterloo also connects with routes to Surrey and
Kent.
Reading
station has a
gracious Italianate façade of 1870 on Platform 4, crowned with a
decorative clock
tower, but however to the side is the new station complete with
shopping
arcade.
Reading
to Taunton:
On
leaving Reading
the line to the West Country leaves the mainline to Bristol,
Oxford and the Midlands
which can be seen heading off to the right. To the right are the fields alongside the
River Thames that every year around the August Bank Holiday weekend are
host to the Reading Festival which is
one of the UK's major summer music festivals. Reading train depot can be
seen in
the centre of the Reading
triangle to the right. The train then runs past housing estates to Reading West, and then soon enters open
country as they cross the River Kennet. The line to Basingstoke
is soon seen diverging off to the left. From this point the river and
the Kennet & Avon
Canal are
never far from the line, and
the canal with its restored locks, its handsome brick bridges and its
brightly
painted narrow boats is an enjoyable feature of the journey. With the
gravel
works and lakes of the Kennet valley to the left, the line passes under
the M4
and then Theale comes into view,
marked by its large early Victorian church. The next station is Aldermaston, but its village with its
pretty brick cottages and its famous pottery is over a mile to the
south of the
station. Closer to hand is Midgham Church,
Victorian and
decorative, and attractively placed in a field just to the west of Midgham station. At Thatcham, another
station some distance from its town, there is a canal lock just to the
left.
Approaching
Newbury, the train passes Newbury
Racecourse
to the left, whose weather
boarded
station, Newbury Racecourse, still
retains its GWR name boards. At Newbury
station, little of the town can be seen, but the centre is not far
away, easily
accessible on foot.
Newbury
has plenty to offer the visitor. The great 16th century
church and
17th century cloth hall, which now houses a museum, reveal
the
town’s former wealth as a centre of the wool trade. In the 15th
century over 1000 wool weavers were employed here, in what was England’s
first
true factory. Prosperity continued in later centuries, particularly
after the
opening of the Kennet
& Avon Canal,
which winds its
way through the town centre, and the legacy is an interesting variety
of
buildings from all periods, including some groups of almshouses and a
Victorian
corn exchange. Newbury is also famous for the two Civil War battles
that were
fought near the town.
Leaving
Newbury, the train enters a wooded stretch, with glimpses of the pretty
village of Hamstead Marshall
to the
left as it passes the close group of the mill, the pub and the canal
lock. To
the right is the classical façade of 18th century Benham
House, set
in its Capability Brown park. Kintbury
village is to the south of its station, clustered around its large
church.
After Kintbury the river valley becomes more defined and the line runs
along
the southern slopes with good views across to the northern side, beyond
the
river and the canal. Hungerford is a
handsome town, with all its main buildings in one street which climbs
southwards away from the river. From the railway bridge just west of
the
station, there is a clear view of the town centre to the left, with its
good
range of 18th and 19th century buildings, but
trains
approaching from the west offer the best view of the church and its
vicarage,
pleasantly set beside the river and the canal. West of Hungerford the
line
overlooks the canal and the river valley, and then it crosses the canal
again
near Froxfield, where the decorative gothic façade of the almshouses
founded by
the Duchess of Somerset in 1694 can be clearly seen.
Railway
and canal now run close together to Little Bedwyn, a delightful little
village
with its 12th century church, its row of 1860s estate
cottages, all
in coloured brick, and the 18th century buildings by the
canal and
lock. Locks appear quite frequently now as the canal climbs towards its
summit,
a few miles to the south west, and the train soon reaches Bedwyn.
Near the station is Great Bedwyn’s large church with its
grand central tower and pretty graveyard, and a short walk away is the
attractive village.
After
Bedwyn the line continues west through the rolling countryside of the
Marlborough Downs. The Kennet
& Avon Canal
continues to parallel the railway to the left and the famous Crofton
Beam
Engines are passed to the right and then the canal
disappears into a
tunnel
near Savernake. Soon the village
of Woolton Rivers
can be
seen to the right as the line draws alongside Martinsell Hill. The
summit of
which is crowned by a large prehistoric camp covering more than 30
acres. The
hill rises 947 ft high and commands fine views across Salisbury Plain
which
stretches away to the left of the railway line.
Soon
the line reaches Pewsey station with
its village to the left, with its church rising above the village.
Salisbury
Plain continues to stretch away to the left. To the right can be seen
Picked
Hill and Woodborough Hill. Due north from here lies the ancient site of
Avebury
one of the many ancient sites that lie alongside this route to the
west. To the
right also can be seen Milk Hill and its famous White Horse. This horse
only
dates from 1812 but some of the other white horses in this part of the
country
are very ancient including the Westbury White Horse which the line
passes later
on in the journey. Then to the right can be seen the village of Woodborough.
The ancient earthwork of Rybury Camp can be seen to the right. While to
the
left is the village
of Beechingstoke
and the
vast expanse of Salisbury Plain stretching away to the south. Then a
broad
valley opens up to the right and the line bends south west. The village of Potterne
can be seen to the right, and on the
left the village
of Great Cheverell
appears. Also to the left the long line of Salisbury Plain forms the
horizon.
Coulston Hill and Stoke Hill are seen as a background to the village of East
Coulston
while a little further on Edington Hill can be seen behind the village of Edington. This village has the
beautiful Priory
Church at
its heart. This splendid piece
of 14th century architecture was built by William de
Edyndune, who
became Bishop of Winchester and began the important rebuilding of
Winchester
Cathedral which was completed by his successor William of Wykeham.
The
next hill viewed to the left is Westbury Hill and at the summit can be
seen the
great earthwork of Bratton Camp with fine trenches clearly marked by
the long
ridges on the hillside. Legend tells that it was at this spot that the
Danish
King Guthrum retired after suffering a heavy defeat by King Alfred the
Great at
the Battle of Ethandune in 878.
Westbury
Hill juts out prominently from the main form of Salisbury Plain at this
point
and soon another famous landmark comes into view on its western slopes.
This is
the famous Westbury White Horse. Unlike its counterpart we saw earlier
in the
journey at Milk Hill near Pewsey, this White Horse is very ancient.
Legend
tells how it may have been cut to commemorate King Alfred the Great’s
great
victory over King Guthrum. But having become overgrown in places it was
recut
in 1778 and received further attention in 1873. It measures 175 ft from
head to
tail and stands 107 ft high.
Soon
the Westbury avoiding line can be seen diverging off to the left and if
the
train is not stopping at Westbury then it will take the avoiding line
and the
town can be seen to the left. However if the train is calling at
Westbury
station then it will continue and the line from Bristol can be seen joining the
mainline from
the right. Then the train enters Westbury
station. This station is an important junction for trains to Bristol
and Salisbury.
After
leaving Westbury the line to Salisbury
can be seen diverging to the left and soon the Westbury avoiding line
rejoins
the mainline from the left. Away to the left can be seen Cley Hill
rising in
the distance. Like many high hills in this part of England
it too has a prehistoric
camp at the summit. The hill rises to 800 ft and commands fine views.
Historically it is of interest as it was one of the sites chosen for
the great
beacon fires that gave warning of the approach of the Spanish Armada.
Soon the
valley of the Frome is reached. Again Frome station, like Westbury, has
an
avoiding line to allow express trains to bypass the station. This is
soon seen
diverging off to the left. Just before entering Frome
station the disused line to Radstock can be seen joining the
mainline from the right. After leaving Frome the avoiding line rejoins
from the
left and the journey continues westwards.
Cley
Hill continues to keep the line company after Frome and the hill could
be
considered as the western outpost of Salisbury Plain as soon we enter a
different landscape. The change is marked almost at once by the fine
mass of
woodland around Longleat House, the seat of the
Marquess of Bath. The
house
stands beside a beautiful lake in a widespread deer park, hidden from view by the
beautiful
Longleat Woods to the left.
To
the right spreads Postlebury Wood over Postlebury hill. These woodlands
form part of Witham
Park. Soon
the village
of Witham Friary
is passed. Here the line to the Cranmore and now home of the East
Somerset
Railway diverges from the mainline to the right. Soon the village of Upton Noble
lies to the right.
The
little River Brue now flows beside the line on the left, and soon the
little
town of Bruton
is reached. On the right the land
slopes down gently into the valley of the Brue and its tributary, the
River
Alham, we have a view of the distant Mendip Hills. Soon the ancient
town of Castle Cary
lies to the
left and Castle Cary station is
reached. Just after the station the line to Yeovil, Dorchester and Weymouth diverges
left
from the mainline.
A
striking landmark that can be seen to the right, looking west, is
Glastonbury
Tor, a prominent hill with the ruined chapel of St Michael on its
summit. Soon
on the left can be seen the church tower of Lovington.
While also
on the left in the distance can be seen Cadbury Castle.
Around the steep sides of the hill are four lines of earthworks and
this camp
is said to have been the last British stronghold in the West to hold
out
against the Romans. Wheathill
Church stands close to
the line on the left, and East
Lydford Church on the right, with
Glastonbury Tor still visible in the distance.
Next
is the village
of Keinton Mandeville
on the
right. This village is the birthplace of Sir Henry Irving in 1838.
Pennard Hill
near Glastonbury
rises up 400 ft on the right. While on the left is the village of Charlton Adam
and its church tower. Then Charlton Mackrell is passed on the right. To
the
right appears Dundon Hill beyond Copley Wood. Soon we reach Somerton.
It is a
picturesque little place with an ancient market cross and other old
buildings.
It stands of the River Cary. After passing Somerton the railway enters
Somerton
Tunnel, and it is the first tunnel after leaving London. After the tunnel the small
market
town of Langport is passed. This town lies on the River Parrett. Hills
rise
either side of the railway here, but the valley of the Parrett broadens
out
into another expanse of low lying country. The stretch lying
immediately to the
right is Aller Moor and where the hills subside into the valley is the village of Aller. This is where King Alfred
the
Great is said to have baptised King Guthrun and many of his followers
in the
Saxon font which can still be seen in Aller Church
soon after the battle of Ethandune. Away to the right beyond the
villages of
Othery and Middlezoy stretches Sedgemoor, famous for the site of the
battle of Sedgemoor which ended the
Duke of Monmouth’s rebellion in
1685.
The
Polden Hills can be seen rising beyond the level stretch of Sedgemoor,
while to
the left on the higher ground bordering West Sedge Moor is seen the
Parkfield
Monument, erected in 1768 by the Earl of Chatham to commemorate Sir
William
Pynsent. Also on the left is the village of Stoke
St Gregory. To
the right can be seen the great Burrow Bridge Mound, identified by
legend as
‘King Alfred’s Fort’, and actually used as a fort during the Civil
Wars.
Athelney is close to the junction of the River Tone and River Parrett.
Soon the
line passes the Isle of Athelney to the left and the legendary location
of the
humble cottage where King Alfred the Great had his telling off after
burning
the cakes! Here in these marshes he took refuge and rested while
preparing the
final assault against the Danes. The Isle is a slight rise above the
level of
the flat lands; and in medieval times there was an abbey, but now there
is a
pillar erected in 1801, with an inscription commemorating King Alfred
the
Great. Looking ahead to the right a distant view can be seen of the
Quantock
Hills. A little way beyond the Isle of Athelney to the right can be
seen the village
of Lyng. While on
the left beyond the level
stretch of Curry Moor, through which flows the River Tone, is seen the
village
of North Curry. In the distance are the Blackdown Hills.
Soon
the line joins the mainline from Bristol
to Taunton
via a flyover and
the Bridgewater & Taunton Canal can be seen on the right. While on
the left
the River Tone follows the line past the village of Creech
St Michael whose church is famous for the
extremely
ancient carving of the Holy Trinity above the west door. The
neighbouring village
of Ruishton also
presents an ancient church
with a fine tower. The M5 soon crosses the railway and then Taunton
station is reached.
Taunton is a fine
town with a rich history. It’s castle was founded in the 8th
century
by King Ina, King of the West Saxons,
and a
large part of the medieval building still remains. Taunton also played an important role
in the
English Civil War and was chosen by the Duke of Monmouth as the place
where he
proclaimed himself King. An event which had its sequel in the Bloody
Assize
held here by Judge Jeffreys.
Taunton to Exeter St
Davids:
Soon
after leaving Taunton a view across to
the
Blackdown Hills opens out to the left and the Wellington obelisk is seen on the
ridge. On
the right is seen Taunton
School, a
notable public
school, located at Staplegrove. The school opened its history in 1847
as the Independent
College, a
centre of education for boys
from nonconformist families. The buildings date from 1870.
The
ancient octagonal church tower on the left is that of Bishop’s Hull. To the
right is the village of Norton
Fitzwarren and site of Norton Fitzwarren
station is soon reached. This station was where the branches to Barnstaple and Minehead diverged off to the
right. Sadly
only the Minehead line now remains and is home to the West
Somerset
Railway. On
the left the village
of Bradford on
Tone
appears. The Blackdown Hills and the Wellington Monument
come into closer
view as we head south west. Then the town of Wellington is passed. There are two Wellingtons – one in Somerset
and one in Shropshire. However it is
this
Somerset Wellington that gives the great Iron Duke and the Duke of
Wellington
their title. Again to the left can be seen the Wellington Monument
erected in honour of the Battle of Waterloo and the Duke of
Wellington’s
victory. Soon the village
of Sampford Arundel
is
passed to the left and Culmstock Beacon can be seen on the western end
of the
Blackdown Hills. After this the landscape slopes down into the Culm Valley.
At
this point the train has started the ascent of Wellington Bank which is
a steep
gradient and soon enters Whiteball Tunnel. Soon the village of Burlescombe
is seen on the left and behind it is the M5 motorway which soon runs
alongside
the railway. To the right is the Grand Western
Canal.
This connects the River Tone with the River Exe which the canal enters
at
Tiverton. Soon the village
of Sampford Peverel
is
seen to the right and Tiverton Parkway
station is reached alongside the M5 motorway.
After
leaving Tiverton Parkway
to the north west on the right of the line can be seen Barton Hill. To
the left
across the Culm Valley
is the village
of Kentisbeare.
Soon the village
of Willand is
passed. The Culm
River
is an important tributary of the River Exe, coming down from the
southern
slopes of the Blackdown Hills. Soon the next settlement passed is
Cullompton.
All the way the M5 parallels the railway line to the left. The railway
then
crosses the River Culm and to the right appears the village of Bradninch.
Bradninch was a chartered borough as long ago as1208 and from the time
of King
Edward II to that of King Henry VII returned two Members of Parliament.
Bradninch Manor House which stands to the right on the outskirts of the
village, is one of the finest examples of an Elizabethan interior in
the
country. Some of the rooms are finely carved and panelled. King Charles
I
stayed at the old Rectory during the Civil War.
The
wooded hill which rises prominently close to the railway on the left is
Dolbury
Hill. Rising sharply out of the landscape by Killerton Park
it checks the River Culm on its course and forces it to make a wide
detour. The
M5 motorway also disappears from view behind the hill. Soon the River
Culm can
be seen again on the left and from the right it is joined by the River
Exe. The village
of Rewe is passed
by close to the railway
on the left. Then again on the left the village of Stoke
Canon
is passed. Then across the River Exe can be seen the village of Brampford Speke.
Just after Stoke Canon the River Exe passes under the railway to join
the River
Culm with the beautiful Stoke Woods rising up to the right.
The
River Exe is a beautiful and interesting river, beginning its story way
up in
the hills and rocky tors of Exmoor.
It rises
in the centre of Exmoor Forest only a few miles from the North Devon
coast
but heads across Devon to find its way into the sea on the South Devon coast at Exmouth. At Tiverton it
receives the River Lowman,
made famous by Blackmore in the ‘Lorna Doone’.
Soon
the railway heads down into the historic city of Exeter. At Cowley
Bridge the line from Barnstaple
can be seen joining the mainline from the right. As we approach Exeter the city
spreads
itself out on the hill to the left and soon Exeter St
Davids station is reached.
Exeter was a
fortified town and a busy port from the Roman period onwards, but it
was the
Normans who developed the city as it stands today. Their legacy is the
great
Exeter Cathedral with its flanking Norman towers. Greatly expanded
during the
Middle Ages, the cathedral is also known for its vaulting and 14th
century sculptures in the west front. It was the River Exe and the port
that
made Exeter
a
wealthy city in the Middle Ages and the surviving timber framed
buildings
reflect this. In order to maintain its wealth, the city built its ship
canal to
the sea, from 1564. Exeter
today is a thriving city with an exciting past. Indeed Exeter
is one of the oldest cities in the West Country as always been a
capital in a
wider sense than being the county town of Devon.
Its position here in the West Country is similar to that of Winchester
to the ancient kingdom
of Wessex. Exeter is also a
bustling
commercial city and a great railway centre.
Here
at Exeter St Davids the former Southern Railway line from London
Waterloo joins
the Great Western mainline. In its heyday Southern Railway expresses
from Waterloo
crossed with
Great Western ones from Paddington each heading in opposite directions.
Southern ones going north via Okehampton and down into Plymouth
via Tavistock, while Great Western ones went south via the famous sea
wall
section at Dawlish to Plymouth.
Sadly today only the Great Western route survives as a through
mainline.
Exeter
St Davids to Plymouth:
Shortly
after leaving Exeter St Davids
station the line to London Waterloo diverges from the mainline to the
left and
heads up the steep Exeter Incline to Exeter Central station. As our
train
leaves Exeter
and heads westwards we pass Exeter St
Thomas station and a view of the magnificent Exeter Cathedral and
the city
opens up to the left. The following section of railway round to Plymouth is one of the most famous sections of
railway in
the world and is very scenic as it follows the legendary Dawlish sea
wall
section and then at Teignmouth turns inland and over the South Devon
banks to Plymouth.
Here the River
Exe is on our left, but the waterway nearest the railway is the Exeter Canal.
This canal runs between the railway and the River Exe for about 5
miles. It was
one of the first canals built in England, having been
commenced in
Queen Elizabeth I’s time. Soon to the right the pinnacled tower of Alphington
Church is visible. While to the left the ancient seaport of Topsham can
be seen
across the River Exe. This is on the Exeter Central to Exmouth railway
line.
This line can be seen from time to time following the river bank on the
other
side of the River Exe. On the right is the village
of Exminster with a 15th
century church containing one of the ornate Devonshire
carved screens.
Soon
on the right can be seen the village
of Powderham with its Church
and Belvidere
Tower. The
Tower is set on a hill with
wide views over the estuary of the River Exe. On the left across the
River Exe
can be seen Nunwell Court.
The great treasure of this house is a panel from Sir Francis Drake’s
ship ‘The
Golden Hind’. Behind can be seen the waterside village of Lympstone.
Next
the focus of interest shifts to the right once more as Powderham Castle.
This is the home of the great Courtenay family (Earls of Devon since
1533) and
is set in its vast deer park.
The castle was built about the time of the Norman conquest and has been
the
home of the Courtenay family since 1377.
Soon
the train reaches Starcross station
and here there is a splendid view across to Exmouth. A notable feature
of Starcross is the Italianate pumping engine house which can be seen
to the right as we pass Starcross station. It is the best surviving
building from Brunel's unsuccessful Atmospheric Railway. This abortive
enterprise is commemorated in the "Atmospheric Railway" pub located
opposite the railway station. The engine house is now home to the
Starcross Sailing & Cruising Club. From Starcross
there is a
ferry service to Exmouth operated
by Exe to Sea Cruises. Between here and Exmouth is the vast
open
stretch of
water that is the estuary of the River Exe. Also there is Dawlish
Warren a
sandbank which thrusts itself out into the Exe like a breakwater at the
mouth
of the river. At the western end of it is Dawlish
Warren station, with Langstone Cliff rising up just beyond. Here
the
railway runs alongside the sea wall and the open sea for the first
time. A fine
headland that rises on the opposite side of the estuary beyond Exmouth
hides
from view the seaside town of Budleigh
Salterton which lurks just round the corner.
Fine
red sandstone cliffs rise up on the right as the railway runs alongside
the
famous Great Western sea wall which continues all the way to
Teignmouth.
However the next station reached is Dawlish
and this is the first seaside resort reached on the Cornish Riviera
route from London.
Dawlish is divided
into two distinct parts, the old town on the right with Dawlish Water
running
through it and the new town. The next section of the line along the
famous sea
wall is punctuated by the train plunging into tunnels at regular
intervals with
glimpses of the sea in between. The first tunnel reached is Kennaway
Tunnel
followed by Phillot Tunnel. Next follows Clerk’s Tunnel and then
Coryton
Tunnel. This is the namesake to Coryton Cove one of the small coves
along this
stretch of coast. Finally comes Parson’s Tunnel the longest and last of
the
series. On our exit to the left can be seen the Paron & Clerk Rock.
If we
look back the way we have come at this point we will see the wide
expanse of
sea to where the Devon coast runs into Dorset
in the east and on a fine day you can see all the way to Portland Bill.
Today
this section of coast is known as the Jurassic Coast -
the Dorset & East Devon Coast World
Heritage Site. Beyond Parson’s Tunnel the line reaches the
outskirts of
Teignmouth a highly picturesque seaside resort and port at the mouth of
the
River Teign. The Danes raided it hundreds of years ago as did the
French
in1690. Here the railway turns inland after a brief glimpse of the
seafront and
reaches Teignmouth station.
After
Teignmouth the line follows the River Teign inland and passes the
harbour
before running inland alongside the River Teign. Across the estuary to
the left
can be seen the village
of Shaldon which
lies at
the waterside in the shadow of Ness Rock. Soon we can see the Teignmouth Bridge
which carries the road from Teignmouth to Torquay across the estuary of
the
River Teign. The village
of Bishop’s
Teignton can
be seen on the right had an ancient importance through its close
association
with the Bishops of Exeter who had a country residence here. The Little
Haldon
Hills which spread inland from here are the foothills to the vast
expanse of Dartmoor. Soon the line
passes King’s Teignton on the
right and across the country to the right can be seen one of the famous
Dartmoor tors, Haytor, which is
1,400 ft high and is
crowned by a magnificent heap of rocks. Next the railway passes under
the A380
main road and Newton Abbot Racecourse is
passed on the right and a
moment later Newton Abbot station is reached. Just
after the Racecourse is passed the disused former branch line to
Heathfield and
Moretonhampstead joins the mainline on the right. Newton Abbot is a
pleasant
town at the head of the Teign estuary and is an important junction for
connections to the English Riviera at Torquay and Paignton and it also
is a
good centre for visiting the Dartmoor National Park.
After
Newton Abbot station the mainline becomes four tracks as the line to
Torquay
separates off to the left at Aller Junction. Torquay, Paignton and
Brixham are
known as the English Riviera and the
line once continued beyond
Paignton to
Kingswear (for Dartmouth)
however this section of line is now home to the Paignton &
Dartmouth Steam
Railway.
Meanwhile
the mainline to Plymouth curves round
to the
right and starts ascending the steep South Devon
banks. On the right can be seen the buildings of the St Augustine’s
Priory, a large modern convent
of Canonesses Regular of the Lateran an order with a most interesting
history.
When the ancient Abbey of Burnham in Buckinghamshire, founded in 1265
was
dissolved by King Henry VIII, a nun crossed to Flanders and succeeded
in
establishing an English convent of the same Order in Louvain in 1609.
In 1794 the French
Revolution drove the nuns back to England and after living in
succession at Hammersmith, Amesbury Abbey in Wiltshire and at
Spettisbury in
Dorset, the community came to Newton Abbot in 1861. The convent which
has a
magnificent church, thus forms an interesting link to pre-Reformation England.
The
village seen beyond the Priory is Abbots Kerswell in the name of which
there is
an obvious harking back to ancient monastic associations. The name
distinguishes it from Kingkerswell which is a village on the left and
which has
a station on the Torbay line.
The
line then climbs steeply up Dainton bank between the rugged cliffs and
quarry
workings in the red and pink stone of Dainton Hill until Dainton Tunnel
is
reached at the summit. Then the view opens out again. Looking up the
valley to
the right, a long succession of views of Dartmoor
can be seen, with distant tors showing their rocky crests in silhouette
on the
skyline. On the right also appears the village of Littlehempston
identified by the lofty tower of its ancient church. The former
Ashburton
branch line then can be seen joining the mainline on the right. This
branch is
now home to the South Devon Railway and
their station at Totnes
Littlehempston
can be seen on the right on the approach to Totnes
station. On the left you can get a glimpse of the town of Totnes and Totnes Castle
perched up high
above the town. This occupies the highest point in Totnes and dominates
the
town. The building of it is attributed to a Norman baron named Judhael
who came
to England
with the Norman conquest, but probably additions to it were made at
later
periods. Totnes is a picturesque old town and excellent centre for
exploring the Dartmoor
National Park and the River
Dart. A little further on again on
the left hand side can be seen Follaton House. After Totnes the line
continues
winding through the landscape with hills rising steeply on either side,
the
country on the right being part of the vast expanse of Dartmoor.
Soon the village
of Tigley can be
seen on
the right with its church as the train ascends the steep Rattery bank.
A little
further inland on the right can be seen the village of Rattery
marked by its church steeple. The church here is one of those that have
helped
make Devon famous for its carved oak
screens.
On the left the Harbourne
River
follows the
railway. After crossing this river the railway plunges into Marley
Tunnel and
after emerging there is a good view of Brent Hill to the right. Soon we
pass
the village
of South Brent,
to the south of which the
main A38 road can be seen wending its way westwards. Beyond South Brent
some of
the prominent heights of the southern fringe of Dartmoor
can be seen ahead. Amongst these is Ugborough Beacon seen first from
the left
hand side of the train at South Brent and then on the right as the
railway
curves round to the south. At the crossing of the little Glaze Brook
there is a
brief glimpse up the valley to the long ridge of Ugborough Moor. On the
right
the village
of Wrangaton can
be seen while to the left
is the A38 main road. This is the location of the steep Wrangaton bank
for
trains going eastbound. On the right is the village of Bittaford.
Soon the sight of Western Beacon greets us on the right hand side as
the train
reaches Ivybridge station. We cross
the wooded valley of the River Erme and the village of Ivybridge
can be seen on the left. A fine expanse of landscape opens out to the
left as
we leave the Erme Valley at Ivybridge and travel towards the Yealm Valley
which runs parallel with it a few miles further west. On the right,
Henlake
Down and Hangar Down rise close together.
The
railway now crosses the River Yealm and comes down through Cornwood and
splendid views open up to the right looking north to Penn Moor and Lee
Moor. Penn Beacon rises up above. On the
right soon after crossing Piall
River is Beechwood Park, and a little
further on again on the right is Hemerdon House. Just behind it is
Hemerdon
Ball a hill where a big camp was established in the Napoleonic wars.
This is
the location of the steep Hemerdon bank for trains going eastbound. The
village
to the left of the railway is Ridgeway. Now we cross Tory Brook which
comes
down from Penn Moor and pass through Plympton, an ancient town now
subsumed
into the suburbs of Plymouth.
Plympton’s claim to fame is that Sir Joshua Reynolds was born here in
1723.
The
railway then passes under the A38 main road and begins the approach to Plymouth. The
River Plym
is soon seen on the left and we pass the train depot at Laira and the
triangle
of lines where the line to Plymouth Friary branches off to the left.
Plymouth
Friary was once the terminus of Southern Railway trains from London
Waterloo
which had arrived in Plymouth from Exeter via Okehampton and Tavistock
before
passing eastwards through Plymouth North Road station and arriving at
Plymouth
Friary. Finally we pass through Mutley Tunnel and enter Plymouth
North Road station.
Plymouth is the City
of Discovery and has the history of England and the British
Empire written all over it. Here Sir Francis Drake played
bowls on
Plymouth Hoe while waiting for the Spanish Armada. Here the Pilgrim
Fathers
boarded the Mayflower on their epic voyage to a new life in America.
Plymouth
is also home to
the great naval base at Devonport. Sadly Plymouth
got very heavily bombed during the Second World War and underwent
extensive
reconstruction in the postwar years. Today only in the area around the
Barbican
can you see any of the medieval architecture that once dominated this
fine city.
The sweeping boulevard that is the Armada Way takes you down from
the station in a straight
line to the Hoe and a spectacular view of the famous Plymouth Sound.
Plymouth is also the departure point for the Brittany Ferries
services to Roscoff in France and Santander in Spain. These ferry
sailings depart from the Continental Ferry Terminal in Millbay Docks.
The city
overlooks the natural sheltered harbour and anchorages of
Plymouth Sound, protected by the Royal Citadel built by King Charles
II. The
scenic Hoe Promenade is where Sir Francis Drake played his famous game
of bowls before commanding the English fleet against the Spanish
Armada. The Elizabethan Barbican, where many buildings remain little
changed since they were constructed in the 16th Century, is home to the
Mayflower Steps, from where the Pilgrim Fathers embarked for their
departure to the New World in 1620. The area remains home to Plymouth’s
fishing fleet and combines the charm of Elizabethan England with modern
visitor facilities, including art galleries, shops, restaurants, cafes
and waterside pubs. The location is ideally suited for exploring the
beautiful coves and inlets of Devon and Cornwall, as well as the rugged
beauty of Dartmoor National Park.
Plymouth also marks
the end of an important stage of the journey on the Cornish Riviera
route from London to Penzance as after Plymouth
the train leaves Devon and crosses the River Tamar to enter Cornwall
on its last leg to Penzance.
Plymouth
to Penzance:
On
leaving Plymouth North
Road
station the line bends round to the right and soon the train reaches Devonport station. The great naval base
of Devonport joins Plymouth
to the west and the famous dockyards of the Royal Navy stretch for a
couple of
miles along the Hamoaze, which is the broad estuary through which the
Rivers
Tamar, Tavy and Lynher find their way into Plymouth Sound.
Devonport
has long been a major base for the Royal Navy and has been a naval
base for centuries. Devonport Naval Base is the largest naval base in
Western Europe and covers over 650 acres and has 15 dry docks, four
miles of waterfront, 25 tidal basins and 5 basins. For many years each
of the Royal Navy's naval bases hosted "Navy Days", this tradition was
continued by the biennial Plymouth Navy Days held at Devonport. Navy
Days were restyled as the "Meet Your Navy" event in 2008 and Devonport Naval Base regularly hosts
the biennial "Meet Your Navy" celebrations
in alternation with Portsmouth Naval Base. The "Meet Your Navy"
celebrations replace the traditional Navy Days.
Soon
after Devonport Dockyard
station the line
leaps high above Devonport on a great viaduct to the left there are
fine views
of the Naval Base, there are further great views to the left as the
train
reaches Keyham station. Across the
Hamoaze can be seen the village
of Torpoint in Cornwall
which is connected to Devonport with the Torpoint Ferry. This is our
first
sight of Cornwall.
Torpoint forms a peninsular between the Lynher or St German’s River and
the
sea. Next the Gunnislake line can be seen diverging from the mainline
to the
right. This is also the remains of the former Southern Railway mainline
via
Bere Alston, Tavistock and Okehampton to Exeter.
Sadly only the section from Plymouth
to Bere Alston and Gunnislake remains. On the left can be seen views of
the
approach to the Royal
Albert Bridge.
Then we pass through St Budeaux Ferry
Road station and then pass over the Gunnislake branch and leap on
to the
famous Royal
Albert Bridge
to cross the River Tamar just before it joins the St German’s River to
form the
Hamoaze.
The Royal Albert Bridge at
Saltash, was
built for the
sole purpose of carrying the Great Western Railway across the river,
was named
in honour of Queen Victoria’s
husband, the Prince Consort. It is one of the great engineering
masterpieces of
Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who constructed the Great Western Railway, and
ranks
alongside the Forth Bridge and Tay Bridge
as one of the most
daring and spectacular pieces of engineering in the world. It was first
opened
in 1859 and the two main spans are each of 445 feet and there are 17
smaller
spans of about 69 ft each. The total length of the bridge is 2,240 ft
and the
bridge is 100ft above the waters of the River Tamar. Above the entrance
arches
as the train moves onto the bridge can be read the words:
I.K. Brunel
Engineer
1859
As
the train crosses the Hamoaze at the height of 100ft above high water
level,
you gain magnificent views of the estuary to the left and the Tamar Road
Bridge to the right and
the Tamar
Valley
beyond. At the far end of the bridge is Saltash
and we have now arrived in Cornwall.
On
the right can be seen the tower of Trematon Castle
which dates in
part from the 13th century. The most interesting thing about
it is
that Sir Richard Grenville was once its governor. To the left across
the broad
estuary of the St German’s River or the Lynher River, which flows into
the
Hamoaze just below Saltash, can be seen Anthony House in its parkland.
This is
the ancient seat of the Carews and Richard Carew who wrote a “Survey of
Cornwall” in Elizabethan times is buried in the Anthony Church, a 15th
century building, the embattled tower of which can be seen rising from
the
village which lies to the west of the park.
The
train now dives into Shillingham Tunnel and on emerging to the right if
you
look across the country you can see the rounded summit of Kit Hill. At
a point
due south of Kit Hill, the railway crosses the River Lynher and then
the River
Tiddy then the line enters St German’s
station. The town of St German’s
is a small town which was an ancient borough until the time of the
Reform Act.
Its fine Norman Church is not visible from the railway but the tower of St Erny Church can be seen
across
country to the right.
In
passing through St German’s the trees of Port Eliot
Park, the
seat of the Earl of St
German’s, can be seen on the right. When the train is clear of the
town, Kit
Hill shows up again. A little beyond and to the west of it is seen the
tower of
Landrake Church, while in the far distance looking right across the
Devonshire
border to the north is a fine view of Dartmoor. Now looking to the
right again
ahead there is the steeple of Menheniot Church,
where the famous
William of Wykeham was once the Rector. While the high country seen to
the
right forms the outskirts of Bodmin Moor.
We
are now in a land of hills separated by winding, zigzagging valleys
which the
train crosses in quick succession by frequent viaducts. We are now
passing the
fringe of the vast expanse of Bodmin Moor. The train then crosses the
River
Seaton, which comes down from the moorland country to the north and
flows here
between well wooded banks, just before we pass Menheniot
station.
Clicker
Tor is a small hill to the left with a fine silhouette of jagged rocks
on its
crest. The Tor rises close beside the railway and as the line curves
round we
see it from different angles. A while after Menheniot station the line
passes
under the A38 main road. Soon we reach Liskeard
station. Liskeard church can be seen to the right as we approach the
town. The
church is the second largest in Cornwall.
Liskeard
is a typical Cornish town set at the edge of the vast uplands of Bodmin
Moor.
The Cheesewring is a weird pile of rocks no less mysterious than Stonehenge. In this same area are the mysterious
Dogmare Poole set at the highest
point of the moors; the Trevethy
Stone; the Hurlers, which are relics of ancient stone circles.
At
right angles to Liskeard station is the station for the Looe branch
which then
climbs down underneath the mainline before it can be seen to the left
of the
mainline reversing at Coombe and then continuing its sinuous way down
to the
coast at Looe. Soon after Liskeard station the mainline crosses the
River Looe
just above the village
of Lamellion.
For
the next few miles the right hand side of the line offers the most
interesting
country, with fine views of Bodmin Moor opening up at intervals as the
train
crosses the valleys. The tower
of St Cleer Church
rising
out of the landscape to the north, makes a landmark to the right as we
leave
Liskeard. Both the railway and the A38 main road then enter the valley
of the
River Fowey and the three run close together for the next couple of
miles.
The
charming river flowing between wooded banks, joins the line close to
Doublebois. At this point the river is joined by a tributary that comes
down
from the north through another wooded vale and flows close to Treverbyn
Vean
seen on the right of the railway just beyond the meeting of the two
streams at
a point called Two Waters Foot.
A
couple of miles across country to the left, beyond the lovely Larynn
Woods,
which clothe the Fowey Valley on this side, is Braddock Down, the scene
of a
battle fought on the 19th January 1643 between a Royalist
force led
by Sir Ralph Hopton and Sir Bevil Grenville and a portion of the
Roundhead
garrison of Plymouth, which had marched out here under Ruthven, the
governor of
the port for the Parliament. In this engagement the Royalists won a
decisive
victory.
On
each side of the railway are ancient barrows, entrenchments and
earthworks. The
River Fowey which the railway follows closely here is one of the most
delightful of Cornish streams, coming down from the high lands of
Bodmin Moor
and giving itself to the sea at the attractive little coastal resort of
Fowey.
Beyond Lewarne on the right a little stream finds its way through Well
Wood and
enters the River Fowey. Here the railway curves through the wooded
valley and the
A38 main road heads off on its way to the right towards Bodmin. Soon
the
railway reaches Bodmin Parkway
station. Just after the station the branch line to Bodmin General
curves off to
the right. This line is now home to the Bodmin
& Wenford
Railway.
The
town of Bodmin lies to the north west of Bodmin Parkway
station. After leaving Bodmin
Parkway the
railway passes through the short Brown Queen Tunnel and curves round
through
the wooded valley, still keeping close to the river, before we pass the
magnificent ruins of Restormel
Castle to
the right. The
castle which has been in ruins for many centuries now is believed to
have been
built by the Cardenham family at the time of King Edward I. It was at
one time
the residence of the Earls of Cornwall and now forms part of the Duchy
of
Cornwall’s property. Opposite Restormel is Druid’s Hill visible on the
left
with a cross on its summit.
Beyond
Restormel the line reaches the ancient town of Lostwithiel lying in the valley of
the Fowey. Lostwithiel station was the junction
for the Fowey branch, now a freight only line, which bears off to the
left
after the station and follows the river down to its estuary at Fowey.
The
mainline crosses the river and then bids farewell to the Fowey Valley
before striking across the moors on a short cut to the coast. Beyond
Treverran
Tunnel the tower
of Tywardreath
Church
appears on the left and beyond the village is Trenython House set high
up amid
the woodlands. On the other side of the line to the right is the china
clay
mining town of St Blazey.
At Par station a branch which goes
to St Blazey and then across Cornwall
to the seaside and surfing resort of Newquay can be see diverging from
the
mainline to the right just after the station.
Just
beyond Par station the railway skirts the edge of Par Sands and Par Harbour
which is busy with the export of china clay. Beyond it we have a view
of the
sea at St Austell Bay. Now the railway hugs the coastline and looking
across
the bay to the left near Par Harbour we gain a good view of Gribbin
Head, which
juts out into the Channel between the mouth of the Fowey and St Austell
Bay.
Fowey is out of sight just round the corner to the east. The
corresponding
headland at the western end of the bay is Black Head.
Looking
inland to the right can be seen the village of St
Blazey Gate. After
passing St Blazey Gate the railway gradually draws away from the sea as
it
approaches St Austell still the chief centre of the china clay industry
in Cornwall.
Its great
granite church on the left is one of the most ornate in Cornwall. Soon St Austell station is reached. This is the station for
the bus link
to the world famous Eden
Project and its huge tropical biomes housed in a former china clay
pit.
Beyond
St Austell the line skirts the edge of Sparnon Moor which banks up on
the
right. Beyond is Burngullow Common now filled with dumps of china clay.
To the
right can be seen some extensive china clay workings and a freight line
can be
seen diverging from the mainline to the right serving these china clay
areas.
Now
we cross the River Fal and on the right is Trenowth Wood. A lot of
places in Cornwall
begin with
‘Tre’. No less than 224 towns, villages and hamlets in the county start
their
names in this fashion. The reason for this is that in the ancient
Cornish
language ‘tre’ means homestead or town-place.
The
contours of an ancient camp can be seen on a hill to the right before
passing
through the village of
Grampound Road. Soon on the left we pass the
village
of Probus and its
church. Its tower is said
to be the tallest and most beautiful in Cornwall.
Soon the train speeds through Polperro Tunnel and Buckshead Tunnel.
Soon views
of the city of Truro
are seen to the left as the railway enters the city high on a viaduct
and the
three lofty towers of Truro Cathedral can be
seen dominating the city.
This was
the first Gothic cathedral completed in England since the
Reformation and
was begun in1880 and the exterior was completed in 1912. Truro station is the
junction for the branch line to Falmouth
which
can be seen branching off to the left soon after leaving Truro and it
crosses Penwithers Viaduct.
On
leaving Truro
the train enters the chief mining district of Cornwall with disused
mine
chimneys and engine houses dotting the landscape. Soon the village of Chacewater
is passed. Chacewater has its place in engineering history, for it was
in a
mine here that Watt’s first pumping engine was erected. The A30 main
road then
rejoins the railway and runs alongside it to the right. At Scorrier to
the
south lies the mansion Scorrier House hidden in woodland. Meanwhile St
Agnes
Beacon can be seen rising to the right and then there is a glimpse of
Portreath
and the North Cornish coast. In the middle distance is the mining village of Illogan whose church tower set
on a hill
serves as a useful landmark for mariners. Soon we reach Redruth
station.
Redruth
presents us with the legacy of the industrial aspect of Cornish life
with its
iron foundries and tin smelting works. While the surrounding
countryside is
also heavily scored with the legacy of tin and copper mining. Many of
the historic remnants of the Cornish Mining industry are now part of
the Cornish Mining World Heritage Site.
In the
town is
the house in which gas was used for lighting for the first time in England
as the
invention of William Murdock. That was in 1792 and an inscription on
the house,
which was Murdock’s home, credits him with having made and tested the
first
steam locomotive here in 1784.
Soon
we pass the rocky foot of Carn Brea hill on the left. Many ancient
relics have
been found here as it was one of the great fortified places in Cornwall in
pre-Roman times. The Monument is
the form of a Celtic cross commemorates Lord de Dunstanville. Close to
the
railway on the right soon after Carn Brea are the disused mine workings
of the
famous Dolcoath Mine, once one of the richest of the Cornish tin and
copper
mines before the decline of the industry. It is nearly 3000 ft deep.
Camborne is the next
station reached and the town is a mining town of similar character to
Redruth.
To the left rise the peaks of Godolphin Hill and Treginning Hill. Both
hills
are littered with relics of the tin and copper mines that once
dominated this
area.
Soon
the port
of Hayle is
reached and Hayle station. From the broad estuary
of the Hayle
River rise
two loft towers of steel
girder work carrying electric mains across the river. Here we have a
good view
into St Ives Bay and a passing glimpse of St Ives. On the western bank
of the
Hayle estuary can be seen the fine tower of Lelant Church.
The famous West Cornwall Golf Course can be seen on the far side of the
estuary
just above the village
of Lelant.
Carnsew
Reservoir is part of Hayle
Harbour.
Water is stored
here at high tide and frequently allowed to escape with a rush to scour
the
harbour channel.
At St Erth station the St Ives branch
can be seen heading off to the coast via Lelant to the left just before
entering the station. St Erth Village lies just a short distance from
the
railway to the left. Across the country to the right is Trencrom Hill
rumoured
in Cornish legend to be the home of giants. Ludgvan Village,
with a 14th century church tower, soon appears on the right.
Apparently the last native wolf in England was killed here.
Soon the
railway meets the coast at Marazion. While approaching Marazion you
catch a
first glimpse of the amazing sight of St Michael’s
Mount rising up out
of
Mount’s Bay. On the pinnacle of rock a monastery was established before
the
Norman Conquest. Now the castle that crowns this rocky outcrop is the
seat of
Lord St Levan. For most of the day and night the sea divides the Mount
from
Marazion but at each tide it is possible to walk across via the
causeway during
a period of about 4 hours. When the tide is in ferry services are
available
from Marazion in summer only.
With
the amazing sight of St Michael’s Mount in view that means that we are
now only
a few miles from journeys end. Already Penzance can be seen straight
ahead,
while a little to the left can be seen Newlyn, a charming little resort
on Gwavas
Lake
which is a tiny bay. Behind it and to the left rise the hills
stretching round
westwards to Land’s End. To the right
the A394
main road accompanies the railway into Penzance
and Long Rock train depot is passed on the right.
To
the south of Newlyn, the small St Clement’s Isle stands a little way
out to sea
in front of Mousehole and the church of Paul
is seen on the
skyline. Drawing nearer to Penzance we may look out back across the
broad sweep
of Mount’s Bay towards the Lizard
Peninsular and the tall wireless masts at Poldhu.
But
now the train draws into Penzance
station at the end of its long journey from London
and comes to a rest at the long platforms of Penzance
station with the front of the train nosing under the arched roof over
the
buffer stops. The Cornish Riviera route from London
to Penzance is complete and you have reached Cornwall and the Cornish Riviera.
Penzance groups itself
finely above the sea. On leaving the station the harbour greets us
outside the
station and from there you can board the Isles of Scilly
Steamship Company ferry service to the Isles of Scilly. The
broad
sweeping
Promenade beyond gives glorious views out to sea and for many miles
along the
sweeping coasts of the Cornish Riviera, with St Michael’s Mount
visible
away to
the left and Land’s
End round the
corner to
the right.
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